Because there are no bumps to create a shadow effect, the surface appears brighter. But wall texture does have the distinct advantage of being a quick method of finishing walls without the seemingly endless cycles of mudding, curing, and sanding drywall compounds. Wall texture can cover up imperfect drywall or mudding work, and it dries rapidly enough that you can begin painting just hours later. Best of all, wall texturing—also known as wall stippling—can be accomplished with a roller and materials that are easy and inexpensive to obtain.
Wall texture is a substance that is thicker than paint but thinner than a straight drywall compound. Texture applied to walls and ceilings creates small shadows due to the bumps and depressions. While these shadows tend to disappear in direct light, they lengthen as the light source moves at a sharper angle to the wall. This darkens the overall shade of the surface, thus slightly darkening the wall. This darkening effect does a superb job of hiding surface imperfections.
If your drywall has visible seams, bulges, depressions, or other imperfections, wall texture can go a long way toward hiding them. This is one reason why ceilings are so often texturized: Because ceilings receive the most light, it is very hard to hide their imperfections. By its very nature, texturing is a messy operation that results in wet texture material flying in all directions. When stippling a ceiling, even the most careful painter will need to cover the floors and adjoining wall surfaces, including door and window trim.
Use drop cloths for the floor and plastic sheeting for vertical surfaces, hanging it with painter's tape. Wall texture effects can vary depending on how the material is applied and rolled.
Practice the technique on scraps of drywall or even sheets of cardboard before moving to your walls and ceilings. Practice with both thin coats and heavy coats. Try different drying times between coats. Some fixing of wall and ceiling surfaces may be necessary before you can apply the stipple texture.
Patch any holes or chips with either drywall compound mud or lightweight spackle. Use your drywall knife to force the compound into the hole and give it a quick swipe with the edge of the knife to smooth the compound across the surface.
Do not spend too much time on this, as it will get covered with the texture material. Fishburne advises that DIYers do a trial before tackling the whole wall. Now hold it up around the room and see. Is this going to get busy? You don't have to texture the whole room. It could be an area, it could just be a ceiling.
So that's where, again, you can kind of modify for how big or small of a project you want to take on. If you managed to survive the faux-finish craze of the '90s, there's a chance that the phrase " textured walls " immediately sends a shiver down your spine. But like cell phones and certain sitcom stars' hair, specialty paint finishes have gotten considerably more sophisticated over the past twenty-odd years. For proof, look no further than Los Angeles-based Portola Paints , a designer favorite offering both traditional paints and a line of specialty textures, including the bestselling Lime Wash and plaster-like Roman Clay.
Unlike traditional plaster, which requires an expert hand for on-site mixing and application which also makes it very pricey , Portola's Roman Clay paint comes pre-tinted and pre-mixed; just apply two or three thin layers using a putty knife or spatula.
For a more rustic look, Davis recommends the Lime Wash finish. While traditional lime-based paints could only be used on raw plaster, stucco, brick or cement, Portola developed an undercoat that allows it to be applied to drywall or existing painted walls. After the primer dries, the lime paint is brushed on top; the lime reacts with the base and "blooms" to create its signature weathered appearance. Santa Fe designer Heather French suggests clay- and marble-based paints from local company BioShield , which have a gritty texture that mimics the region's traditional adobe mud walls.
The self-priming formula couldn't be easier to use: paint two coats on top of existing paint, drywall or masonry, and let dry. Allow the wall to dry completely for at least 24 hours before painting a new coat. Let the second coat dry for at least 24 hours as well before the next step. You will need a few clean linen or lint-free cotton cloths or rags , or a sea sponge they provide a more irregular, natural appearance than synthetic sponges.
For rag rolling, decide which method you want to use: rolling on or rolling off. Each of them provides different variations of the same texture. Rolling off usually means less of the base coat will show through, compared to rolling on the paint. Rolling off also usually requires more rags because they eventually become saturated with paint and cease to provide the desired effect.
Choose a small portion of the wall to use as a test area to see which method works best for you. You can always paint over what you've done. For the next coat, use a slightly darker shade of the same color paint you used as your base coat or vice versa, if you want the base coat to be darker than the top coat.
For better results, try diluting the paint for the next coat by mixing it with water in a paint tray. Aim for getting the mixture at a ratio of paint to water. If you're rolling on the paint, dip your rag into a paint tray to cover it with paint.
Be careful not to over-saturate the cloth. Twist it or bunch it up into a ball to distribute paint evenly throughout and then roll the cloth down the wall with steady pressure, starting at the top. Try not to use the same downward stroke each time or the results may be too uniform; you want to use slightly angled, different strokes, re-adjusting as you move along the wall. Keep extra rags handy, as once one becomes too saturated with paint, you'll need a new one because it won't work in the same way.
Do this across the entire surface of the wall until you've covered it completely. When rolling off the paint, apply the next coat of paint over the base coat with a roller or paintbrush.
Then, immediately begin rolling a clean twisted or bunched up rag down the wall. The clean rag will pick up paint from where you just painted, creating the textured appearance. Do small areas at a time so that the top coat doesn't dry before you begin rolling. Once the rag has become completely saturated with paint, discard it and use another.
Keep applying paint and rolling it off in downward strokes across the surface of the wall until you've covered it. For a consistent appearance, make sure your dabs overlap each other.
To get maximum texture, periodically re-wet the sponge.
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